Gulfport Gem

My husband Brad and I recently took my in-laws out to dinner at the Gulfport establishment Backfin Blue. It was one of those "memorable meal" experiences -- mouth-watering food, warm service, and no watch-checking, all while sitting on the back porch watching a storm roll in. Granted we were wearing wine goggles that evening (we went through two bottles for three people, since Brad's mom isn't a drinker), but I think the meal would've held up even if we'd stuck with ice water.

The aforementioned wine was two bottles of Ravenswood Zinfandel for $22 each. Zinfandel has become my go-to red -- not super heavy, so it's fine for sipping sans meal, but with more character than merlots or pinot noirs. The wine list was very affordable with many bottles in the low $20s, going up from there. Yes, you can find Ravenswood for half the price at Total Wine, but when is this not true of a restaurant bottle?

To start, I had the Corn & Crab Soup which was out-of-this-world ooey gooey rich. I probably gained 2.7 pounds eating a bowl, well worth it though. Order this soup. Seriously. The rest of my tablemates ate the fish spread. I only managed to leave my soup for one swipe of the smooth spread before my husband housed the whole plate. He's a man of few words, but I think he recommends it.

Our entrees came with two salad choices. The ladies went with the straightforward Tossed Salad, which hit the spot with its red onion slices. (Why don't restaurants use red onions more? C'mon people!) The more adventurous gentlemen ordered the Artichoke & Tomato, marinated in balsamic vinaigrette. It was too vinegary for my tastes, but the me claimed to love it.

Then came the dinners: two orders of a special combining the Jumbo Lump Crabcakes and the Portobello Imperial, an order of Prime Rib, and Macadamia Nut-Crusted Grouper. (The seafood dishes were all around the $20 range, and the ten-ounce Prime Rib came in at $14.50.) The crabcakes were hearty, made of crab with little filler. The price may seem high compared to crabcakes at other restaurants, but since these guys weren't packed with breadcrumbs or crackers, it's not apples-to-apples. I preferred the straight-up crabcake to its more dolled-up partner sitting atop a portobello and a spoonful of red pepper sauce.

The prime rib was juicy, fatty, and to my eyes appeared much larger than its ten-ounce label. (We all wondered if they kindly guesstimated the weight of the marbling and removed it from the actual weight. This sucker was HUGE.) But the star of the evening was the grouper, expertly cooked to create a buttery flavor without actually tasting like it'd been simmering in a stick of butter, and covered with what looked like an entire can of hand-chopped mac nuts.

I should mention the service as well, since the food makes a restaurant while the service can break it. The waitstaff were excellent and perfectly suited to this restaurant. Casual, friendly, relaxed, yet knowledgeable.

Our bill for two bottles, two apps, and four entrees came to around $140. The prices seems slightly high-ish for our area, but we all went home with plenty of leftovers. One crabcake was a full meal since it's straight meat, and my fellow diners conquered less than half of the prime rib and grouper. With the portions and food quality, the prices are a steal.

If you're looking to save a little cash, check the Creative Loafing Deals section. Under "Bites," we purchased a $30 gift certificate at Backfin Blue for $15 (well, technically it's $17 after the $2 fee). If you're planning on clearing $30 in food charges (any couple dining there will hit this mark easily), then you can save $13 by visiting CL Deals first!

In the changing landscape of Gulfport, Backfin Blue has remained a constant for obvious reasons. With the vistas reminiscent of Old Florida, the charming porch seating, and fresh food prepared with care, this place is the backbone of Gulport's restaurant scene.